Exploring Tonlé Sap Lake in Cambodia
Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia (ISO 200, 24 mm, f/5.6, 1/1250 s)
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Lake Tonlé Sap, commonly translated as ‘Great Lake’, was an unexpected stop for me while touring through Cambodia. I had so much anticipation for seeing Angkor Wat that I wasn’t sure what to expect from any other sites in Cambodia. It is located in the heart of Cambodia, just south of the Angkor Wat Archaeological Park and a few hours north of the Cambodian capital of Penom Penh.
The significance of Tonlé Sap Lake cannot be overstated. It belongs to the Mekong River system and is the largest freshwater lake in all of Southeast Asia. It also has incredibly diversity with regard to its ecosystems and has been given Biosphere Reserve status by UNESCO in 1997.
Furthermore, Tonlé Sap Lake is home to nearly a million residents, living in floating villages throughout. It was so fascinating seeing how people live and thrive in this type of environment. If you’re looking for other adventures while in Cambodia, I recommend booking a trip to Tonlé Sap Lake with a tour operator. Oftentimes, people go through Tonlé Sap on their journeys from Penom Penh to Siem Reap, or reverse.
Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia (ISO 200, 24 mm, f/5.6, 1/1250 s)
How to get to Tonlé Sap Lake
You have the option of flying into Cambodia via two airports:
Siem Reap International Airport (Airport Code: REP)
Penom Penh International Airport (Airport Code: PNH)
Siem Reap is much closer to Lake Tonlé Sap (15 km), however Penom Penh is the larger airport. I recommend flying into Siem Reap since you also have the Angkor Wat Archaeological Park nearby as well.
To get to Lake Tonlé Sap from Seam reap, you need to get transport to one of the floating villages that serves the lake. These villages are: Kampong Phluk, Kampong Khleang, Mechrey, Chong Kneas and Prek Toal. Here is some insight into traveling to each village:
Kompong Phluk – A tour to this village can be done via a half day tour, which are bookable online and cost around $25, which includes pickup from your accommodation.
Kompong Khleang – Tours to this village take 6 hours and leave Siem Reap at 2pm. They cost about $35 a person however a longer tour that includes a visit to the Angkor temple of Beng Meala for four people, costs about $250.
Mechrey - Tours to this village start at Mechrey boat pier, which is reachable from Siem Reap and takes an hour. The journey is via a national road followed by a dirt road the last 12 kilometers.
Chong Khneas – You can take a tuk-tuk from Siem Reap to this village. The journey takes 40 minutes one way and costs about $13 for a round trip. Then take a 2 hour boat tour from the dock, which costs another $28. These boats don’t usually leave until they are full. Food for thought.
Prek Toal – The cost of a tour to Prek Toal can vary but is about $300 for one person. It is a longer tour that starts around 6am in Siem Reap and returns at 4pm. Food is included in this along with pick up and drop off at accommodation.
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The Best Time to See Tonlé Sap Lake
Being a floating village, one can theoretically access much of the lake at all times of the year. Perhaps the best time to visit this lake though has to be in December. This is usually when the water is the most calm and there should be minimal amount of rain to content with during your trip at this time of year.
Kompong Phluk Village
As mentioned above, there are a number of villages you can go to to access Tonlé Sap Lake, each with their own offerings. One such place is the Kompong Phluk village and Mangroves.
The village at Kompong Phluk is mostly known for its mangroves which cover the entire water landscape. Any boat excursion will take you through these ecosystems and the ride is usually quite peaceful.
The best time to visit this village has to be anytime between September and January and the mornings are typically the best time of day for your tour. Sadly though, there are no floating villages in this part of Tonlé Sap Lake at Kompong Phluk. You can head to Kompong Khleang to see these villages.
Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia (ISO 200, 24 mm, f/5.6, 1/1250 s)
Kompong Khleang Village
The Kompong Khleang village has an extensive network of floating homes, some of which are rather high that emerge from the water. You will oftentimes also see locals fishing and trading in their decorated boats during the day. I was so shocked to hear that in addition to fishing here, locals drink the water of the lake as well as do their laundry. It seems to work well for them.
Only in the dry season of Cambodia, from February to May, can you access some of these homes on foot. During these months, vegetable farming is also possible and you will find many activities such as smoking fish, fixing and fabricated fish nets, to education and trading in markets to occur in the daily lives of the residents.
Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/5, 1/1600 s)
Mechrey Floating Village
The Mechrey floating village can be seen on a half day tour usually between September to January. The village, much like Kompong Khleang village is composed of floating homes as well as a school and even a Buddhist Pagoda for the locals.
Chong Kneas Floating Village
The Chong Kneas floating village is the largest in Tonlé Sap Lake. This is perhaps because you can visit it year round, though the boat trip can run into problems during the dry season (April to July). This village is also the closest to Siem Reap, making it a convenient option for tourists.
The Chong Kneas floating village is also quite similar to the villages of Mechrey and Kompong Khleang, without the stilt houses for the latter. Locals fishing, selling their wares and vegetables, schools in session and a community market will also be common sights here. Tours to this village can be book for the mornings and afternoons, or even for the sunset.
PROTIP about Chong Kneas Floating Village: Unfortunately, there are stories you hear about bad tourist experiences in Chong Kneas Floating Village. I myself have not had such experiences but the stories you hear are credible and quite frequent. Oftentimes, nefarious tour and boat operators upcharge tourists, claiming hidden costs as well as pressure people to purchase items. One way to get around this is to simply not see the Chong Kneas Floating Village and to opt for a different access point to Tonlé Sap anyway. If you have no other option, try to speak up about the costs up front before getting on the boat, and stand first if you don’t wish to buy anything.
Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia (ISO 100, 24 mm, f/5, 1/1000 s)
