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I have been very fortunate to be able to travel as much as I do. I never stop appreciating it. People often ask me where my favorite place is but I have a hard time just giving them one answer. That changed however when I went to Helsinki for my third time (Check out my blog post on seeing Helsinki - ‘Welcome to Helsinki - The Finnish Capital).

If I could pick any place where I truly enjoy myself and my time there, and if I could go anywhere in any moment, it would be to Suomenlinna. What is Suomenlinna? It is:

• A UNESCO World Heritage Site

• Located off the coast of Finland in the capital Helsinki

• A group of eight islands that together form a sea fortress

• It was initially built by Sweden, but has also been in the hands of Russia and Finland

• Still inhabited by local residents

• Possesses many historical sites as well as restaurants and cafes

‘Suomenlinna’ translates to ‘Castle of Finland’. The site was also called ‘Sveaborg’ by the Swedes. I think what I really enjoy about being there is that when you are walking along its paths, you don’t feel like you’re in a major city. It feels like the countryside as it’s quiet and peaceful. Then when you have had your dose of nature, you can simply hop onto the ferry and make your way back to Helsinki.

A Brief History

This fortress has had quite the history. It was originally built by Sweden starting in 1748, primarily due to its excellent location in countering the rising Russian maritime threat during that time. The fortress over the next few decades was constructed and became operational, but was never complete. During the Russo-Swedish War from 1788-1790 and Russian pressure in the area thereafter, the fortress of Swedish recruits surrendered Sveaborg to the Russians in 1808.

The Russians further fortified the fortress extensively, including the addition of artillery guns. Following the Russian Revolution in 1917 and subsequent independence of Finland, Suomenlinna was finally turned over to the Finns. Though not so much a fortress anymore, it is home to roughly 900 people. Maybe some day I will be one of them (when I retire)?

How to Get to Suomenlinna

It’s extremely easy to get to Suomenlinna. Here is how you do it:

1. Once in Helsinki, head towards Market Square (the Waterfront area, most noticeable from the Helsinki SkyWheel)

2. Purchase a ticket for the ferry (schedule here).

3. Sail 10 minutes to Suomenlinna.

4. You’re there! (Download a Map of Suomenlinna here!)

There is no right or wrong route to go once you get to the island(s), but I would recommend taking the ‘blue route’, which is signposted throughout the 8 islands so you can easily find your way around. The Blue Route runs north to south and is approximately 1.5 kilometers long (one way). For more information about a specific place, there are five info boards along the route at:

• Russian merchants’ quarter

• Church Park

• Great Courtyard

• Piper’s Park

• Kustaanmiekka fortifications

The list of places that I will highlight further in this post is not comprehensive, but just a collection of places that I had enjoyed the most. Most of them are open year round but I would advise you to check opening hours/times in advance to avoid disappointment.

The Jetty Barracks Gallery is the first attraction that catches your eye the moment you get off the ferry. It is most recognizable by its bright pink façade and old clock. The building is maintained by the HAA, the Helsinki Artists Association who hold a variety of art exhibitions a year. Time it just right and you may be here for one of them.

One place that I have not personally stayed at is Hostel Suomenlinna, but I absolutely intend on staying there someday. I feel like, to really enjoy the full scale of Suomenlinna, you should not have to always be cognizant of catching a ferry back to the mainland. I imagine staying on the island, maybe going for a morning run during sunrise, and spending the day walking every inch of the area. Someday! Also conveniently located, near the hostel is the grocery store, perfect for stocking up for a spring/summer/fall time picnic.

Suomenlinna Church started off as a church garrison for Russian troops back in 1854 but was converted in 1918 to an Evangelical Lutheran church by Finland, to distance themselves from Russia, in lieu of their independence from them that year.

FUN FACT: It also functions as a lighthouse, making it one of the only dual purpose churches in the world.

The Military Museum of Finland maintains a collection of artifacts and other heritage that were directly involved in the development of the Defence Forces of Finland. One of the most popular exhibitions happens to be the Submarine Vesikko (Sukellusvene-Vesikko), a Finnish submarine that saw combat in WWII. It is actually the only one that was left in the entire Finnish fleet at the conclusion of the war. Interestingly enough, the submarine was decommissioned shortly after the war since the Peace Treaty of 1947 forbade Finland from owning and operating submarines.

Café Vanille, situated in the Russian market center district, lies along the Blue Route on Suomenlinna, so it’s hard to miss. They are open throughout the summer and on weekends in the winter. What is perhaps quite remarkable about this cafe is that you can also order picnic baskets through them!

Cafe Silo is one of the best cafes in all of Helsinki…seriously, they are ranked. They are also located in the the old Russian merchant quarter and serve great pastries, soups, and salads at all times of the year. This Cafe is also a part of Villa Silo, an enchanting accommodation on Suomenlinna for those wanting a peaceful and tranquil experience.

The Suomenlinna Museum is located geographically in the middle of Suomenlinna, and discusses the lengthly history of the island chain (a MUCH better history than the one I afforded you at the beginning of this blog post). Artifacts that have been uncovered from the islands include utensils, tools, weapons and ammunition, that are now on display in the museum.

Adlerfelt (Adler House) is a cafe/restaurant located in a 250 year old building on Susisaari island. The place has a nice courtyard, adorned with fixtures of soft lighting, great food, and an overall relaxed vibe. I recommend eating here if you want more than a typical cafe experience, but also less than something more formal.

Sveaborgs badstrand is a small stretch of beach located near the south end of Suomenlinna. I haven’t personally dipped into the water myself but I don’t imagine it to be super warm, something the Finns don’t really mind. When I say ‘small stretch of beach’, I absolutely mean it. Just a few people can probably lay out in this beach but the fact that it’s located on Suomenlinna trumps the lack of capacity issue.

The Kustaanmiekka sand banks and artillery is one of the last stops along the Blue Route and you will know you’re there when you see a few massive artillery guns facing out into the sea. This is the perfect area for a sunset as it is situated rather high on the cliffside and where many people usually congregate. The guns themselves are siege/coastal guns of Russian origin dating back to the 19th century.

The final stop on the walk is the King’s Gate (Kuninkaanportti). When King Adolf Frederick of Sweden visited the fortress back in 1752 (still under construction), this was the area where he and his ship landed for the inspection. The gate has been refurbished a number of times, the most recent being in 1998.

Though this is the end of the Blue Route, there are some other nice places to check out while at Suomenlinna. One is the island of Länsi-Mustasaari. I remember picking up some beers and walking here with a friend and sitting upon some large rocks next to the water on a warm summer’s day and catching up. It was when I first really started to love this area.

If you have the time, why not take a ferry a little bit longer and to another country? Estonia is just a 2 hour ferry ride across the Gulf of Finland, connecting you to Tallinn, the capital city. You can easily see the city as a day trip. Check out my blog post here on what to do and see in Tallinn, Estonia.

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